Rhapsody in Sâncrai, Romania

I left Budapest for Huedin, Romania at about 11pm for an 9 hour trip through lightening next to a sweaty stinky man.  I got off the bus in Huedin at 9am as two old ladies argued while sweeping the sidewalk with homemade brooms.  There were no restaurants or cafes but many bars so I stepped into a bar and drank coffee as the old men of Huedin were getting started with their first brew puffing away at their cigarettes in classy hats.  The bar was adorned with lotto machines, naked lady posters and the barkeep looked like a Floridian grandmother. 

From there I hitch-hiked to Sâncrai where a folk dance was to be held.  Very soon I was picked up by an older couple and what I assume was their younger daughter.  Nobody spoke english but the daughter had a tattoo on her arm reading, “I love you baby.”

I walked into town in a sleep deprived haze and plead my case to the operators of this event.  Music was ringing out of several buildings, the sounds of feet pounding the ground and the swelling of over 20 violins chiming the same melody. 

As I write this it is 4a.m. and I can still hear them out the window chanting tougher in an ancient language to songs that begin slow and bittersweet and build until the floor is packed with dancing, singing, spinning and slapping knees and feet in rhythm to a melody that weaves through changing time signatures and builds for about half an hour.

Flat bridge violas keep rhythm as fried sausages are sold for 2 lui each (half a dollar).  The joy spans the faces of multiple generations who are entranced in a frenzy of exuberance. 

What I would pay to import this atmosphere to the U.S.  This was built over the course of many generations and carefully fostered and protected.  Bluegrass comes close but doesn’t have the amount of regional nuances and skilled dancing as the music of Eastern Europe.

Something that makes you sad and joyful at the same time is worth heading into.  This music pushes towards obsession so it is no surprise that the performers and scholars of this music are so detailed about its technique and origin.

Here is the first of what I hope to be many films that explore this culture.  My only limitation is my time here and I have a decent amount.